World Library  
Flag as Inappropriate
Email this Article

Flannel

Article Id: WHEBN0000922083
Reproduction Date:

Title: Flannel  
Author: World Heritage Encyclopedia
Language: English
Subject: 2010s in fashion, Cone Mills Corporation, Madras (cloth), Cloth diaper, Tattersall (cloth)
Collection: 1990S Fashion, 2000S Fashion, 2010S Fashion, Woven Fabrics
Publisher: World Heritage Encyclopedia
Publication
Date:
 

Flannel

Detail of a shirt in purple wool flannel.

Flannel is a soft woven fabric, of various fineness. Flannel was originally made from carded wool or worsted yarn, but is now often made from either wool, cotton, or synthetic fiber. A textile made from Scots pine fibre is called vegetable flannel.[1] Flannel may be brushed to create extra softness or remain unbrushed. Brushing is a mechanical process wherein a fine metal brush rubs the fabric to raise fine fibres from the loosely spun yarns. Typically, flannel has either a single- or double-sided nap. Double-napped flannel refers to a fabric that has been brushed on both sides. If the flannel is not napped, it gains its softness through the loosely spun yarn in its woven form. Flannel is commonly used to make tartan clothing, blankets, bed sheets, and sleepwear.

"Flannel shirt" is often mistakenly used to mean any shirt with a plaid or tartan pattern, rather than a shirt constructed of flannel fabric.

Contents

  • History 1
  • Types 2
  • Weave 3
  • See also 4
  • References 5

History

The origin of the word is uncertain, but a Welsh origin has been suggested as fabric similar to flannel can be traced back to Wales, where it was well known as early as the 16th century. The French term flanelle was used in the late 17th century, and the German Flanell was used in the early 18th century.[2]

Flannel has been made since the 17th century, gradually replacing the older Welsh plains, some of which were finished as "cottons" or friezes, which was the local textile product. In the 19th century, flannel was made particularly in towns such as Newtown, Montgomeryshire,[3] Hay on Wye,[4] and Llanidloes.[5] The expansion of its production is closely associated with the spread of carding mills, which prepared the wool for spinning, this being the first aspect of the production of woollen cloth to be mechanised (apart from fulling). The marketing of these Welsh woollen clothes was largely controlled by the Drapers Company of Shrewsbury.[6][7][8]

At one time Welsh, Yorkshire, Lancashire and Irish flannels differed slightly in character due largely to the grade of raw wool used in the several localities, some being softer and finer than others. While nowadays, the colour of flannel is determined by dyes, originally this was achieved through mixing white, blue, brown and black wools in varying proportions. Lighter shades were achieved by bleaching with sulphur dioxide.[9]

Originally it was made of fine, short staple wool, but by the 20th century mixtures of silk and cotton had become common. It was at this time that flannel trousers became popular in sports, especially cricket, in which it was used extensively until the late 1970s.

The use of flannel plaid shirts was at peak in the 1990s with popular grunge bands like Nirvana and Pearl Jam using them as one of their trademarks of their shaggy look.

Types

Flannelette typically refers to a napped cotton the texture of flannel. The weft is generally coarser than the warp. The flannel-like appearance is created by creating a nap from the weft; scratching it and raising it up. Flannelette can either have long or short nap, and can be napped on one or two sides. It comes in many colours, both solid and patterned.[10]

  • Baby flannel is a lightweight fabric used for childrenswear.[11]
  • Cotton flannel or Canton flannel is a cotton fabric napped on one side or two sides.
  • Ceylon flannel was a name for a wool and cotton mixture.[9]
  • Diaper flannel is a stout cotton fabric napped on both sides, and used for making cloth diapers.
  • Vegetable flannel, invented by Léopold Lairitz in Germany in the 1800s, uses fibres from the Scots pine rather than wool.[12]

Weave

Flannel, flannelette, and cotton flannel can be woven in either a twill weave or plain weave. The weave is often hidden by napping on one or both sides. After weaving, it is napped once, then bleached, dyed, or otherwise treated, and then napped a second time.

See also

References

  1. ^ "Vegetable flannel". Webster's 1913 Dictionary. Webster. Retrieved 18 August 2014. 
  2. ^ "Flannel". Encyclopædia Britannica Eleventh Edition. 1911. 
  3. ^ Newtown History
  4. ^ Clwyd-Powys Archaeological Trust - Projects - Historic Landscapes - Middle Wye - Administrative Landscapes
  5. ^ Llanidloes History
  6. ^ Dodd, A. H. (1931). Industrial Revolution in North Wales. pp. 229–81. 
  7. ^ Jenkins, J. Geraint (1969). The Welsh Woollen Industry. Cardiff. 
  8. ^ Jenkins, J. Geraint (1963). "The woollen industry in Montgomeryshire". Montgomeryshire Collections 58. pp. 50–69. 
  9. ^ a b The Concise Household Encyclopedia (c. 1935) The Amalgamated Press, London
  10. ^ "Flannelette". Encyclopædia Britannica Eleventh Edition. 1911. 
  11. ^ Lewandowski], Elizabeth J. Lewandowski ; [illustrations by Dan. The complete costume dictionary. Lanham, Md.: Scarecrow Press, Inc. p. 19.  
  12. ^ "Vegetable Flannel". Frank Leslie's Pleasant Hours: 256. 1869. 


This article was sourced from Creative Commons Attribution-ShareAlike License; additional terms may apply. World Heritage Encyclopedia content is assembled from numerous content providers, Open Access Publishing, and in compliance with The Fair Access to Science and Technology Research Act (FASTR), Wikimedia Foundation, Inc., Public Library of Science, The Encyclopedia of Life, Open Book Publishers (OBP), PubMed, U.S. National Library of Medicine, National Center for Biotechnology Information, U.S. National Library of Medicine, National Institutes of Health (NIH), U.S. Department of Health & Human Services, and USA.gov, which sources content from all federal, state, local, tribal, and territorial government publication portals (.gov, .mil, .edu). Funding for USA.gov and content contributors is made possible from the U.S. Congress, E-Government Act of 2002.
 
Crowd sourced content that is contributed to World Heritage Encyclopedia is peer reviewed and edited by our editorial staff to ensure quality scholarly research articles.
 
By using this site, you agree to the Terms of Use and Privacy Policy. World Heritage Encyclopedia™ is a registered trademark of the World Public Library Association, a non-profit organization.
 


Copyright © World Library Foundation. All rights reserved. eBooks from Project Gutenberg are sponsored by the World Library Foundation,
a 501c(4) Member's Support Non-Profit Organization, and is NOT affiliated with any governmental agency or department.