Ottoman clothing

Ottoman Sultan Suleiman the Magnificent adorned in a well embroidered Kaftan.

Ottoman clothing is the style and design of clothing worn by the Ottoman Turks.

Ottoman period

A stylish young woman of the mid-17th century. She wears salwar (trousers), a long, sheer pirihan (chemise), and an ankle-length purple entari (outer robe) with the ends tucked up. The fur lining of her yelek (jacket or vest) marks her as wealthy and high-ranking.

While the Palace and its court dressed lavishly, the common people were only concerned with covering themselves. Starting in the reign of Suleiman the Magnificent, administrators enacted sumptuary laws upon clothing. The clothing of Muslims, Christians, Jewish communities, clergy, tradesmen, and state and military officials were particularly strictly regulated during the reign of Suleiman the Magnificent.

In this period men wore outer items such as 'mintan' (a vest or short jacket), 'zıbın', 'şalvar' (trousers), 'kuşak' (a sash), 'potur', 'entari' (a long robe), 'kalpak', 'sarık' on the head; 'çarık', 'çizme', 'çedik', 'Yemeni' on the feet. The administrators and the wealthy wore caftans with fur lining and embroidery, whereas the middle class wore 'cübbe' (a mid-length robe), 'hırka' (a short robe or tunic), and the poor wore collarless 'cepken' or 'yelek' (vest).

Bashlyks, or hats, were the most prominent accessories of social status. While the people wore "külah's" covered with 'abani' or 'Yemeni', the cream of the society wore bashlyks such as 'yusufi, örfi, katibi, kavaze', etc. During the rule of Süleyman a bashlyk called 'perişani' was popular as the palace people valued bashlyks adorned with precious stones. 'Kavuk', however, was the most common type of bashlyk. For this reason, a related tradesmenship was formed in the 17th century. Fur was a material of prestige in that period. Political crises of the 17th century were reflected as chaos in clothes. The excessively luxurious compulsion of consumption and showing off in the Tulip Era lasted till the 19th century. The modernization attempts of Mahmut II in 1825 first had its effects in the state sector. While 'sarık' was replaced by 'fez', the people employed in Bab-ı Ali began to wear trousers, 'setre' and 'potin'.

During the 'Tanzimat' and 'Meşrutiyet' period in the 19th century, the common people still keeping to their traditional clothing styles presented a great contrast with the administrators and the wealthy wearing 'redingot', jacket, waistcoat, boyunbağı (tie), 'mintan', sharp-pointed and high-heeled shoes. Women's clothes of the Ottoman period were observed in the 'mansions' and Palace courts. 'Entari', 'kuşak', 'şalvar', 'başörtü', 'ferace' of the 19th century continued their existence without much change. In the 16th century women wore two-layer long 'entari' and 'tül', velvet shawl on their heads. Their outdoor clothing consisted of 'ferace' and 'yeldirme'. The simplification in the 17th century was apparent in an inner 'entari' worn under short-sleeved, caftan-shaped outfit and the matching accessory was a belt.

Women's wear becoming more showy and extravagant brought about adorned hair buns and tailoring. Tailoring in its real sense began in this period. The sense of women's wear primarily began in large residential centers such as Istanbul and İzmir in the 19th century and as women gradually began to participate in the social life, along with the westernization movement. Pera became the center of fashion and the Paris fashion was followed by the tailors of Greek and Armenian origin. In the period of Abdul Hamid II the use of 'ferace' (a concealing outer robe shaped like a modestly cut version of the indoor dress) was replaced by 'çarşaf' of different styles. However, the rural sector continued its traditional style of clothing.

Republican period

The clothing styles prevailing until the mid 19th century imposed by religious reasons entered a transformation phase of the Republican period. In this period the 'şapka' and the following 'kılık kıyafet' reform realized with the leadership of Mustafa Kemal Atatürk in Kastamonu in 1925 had a full impact in Istanbul. Women's 'çarşaf' and 'peçe' were replaced by coat, scarf and shawl. Men began to wear hats, jackets, shirts, waistcoats, ties, trousers and shoes. With the industrialization process of the 1960s women entered the work life and tailors were substituted by readymade clothes industry. The contemporary fashion concept, as it is in the whole world, is apparent in both social and economic dimensions in Turkey as well.

Modern use

Modern Turkish designers such as Rıfat Özbek, Cemil İpekçi, Vural Gökçaylı, Yıldırım Mayruk, Sadık Kızılağaç, Hakan Elyaban, and Bahar Korçan draw inspiration from historical Ottoman designs, and Ottoman or Ottoman-inspired patterns are important to the Turkish textile industry.

Gallery

Religious garb

• A Rabbi (1878)

• Armenian Orthodox Patriarch(1878)

• Greek Orthodox Priest (1878)

• Turkish Muslim alim (1878)

Classical period

• Turkish Peasant (1878)

• Turkish Zeybek (1878)

Decline

• Turkish Man (1878)

• Turkish Woman at home (1878)

• Veiled Turkish Woman (1878)

• Porter (1878)

• Mendicant Dervish (1878)

• Dervish (1878)

• Turkish Boy (1878)

• Turkish Boy (1878)

• Turkish Girl (1878)

• Gypsy Girl (1878)

• Men aboard a ferry (1878)

• Men aboard a ferry (1878)

• Odalisque (1878)

• Woman outdoors (1878)

Folk costumes in 1873

• Vilayet of Constantinople

• 1. Burgher from Istanbul
  2. Aiwas (servant)

• 1. Caikdji (cabman)
  2. Sakka (water carrier)
  3. Hammal (porter)

• 1. Mevlevi Dervish
  2. Bektashi Dervish
  3. Mullah

• 1. Turkish lady from Istanbul
  2. Turkish schoolboy

• 1. Armenian bride
  2. Jewish woman from Istanbul
  3. Greek girl

• Vilayet of Adrianople

• 1. Muslim inhabitant of Edirne
  2. Muslim horseman from Edirne
  3. Christian artisan from Edirne

• 1. Greek peasant from Bitola
  2. Greek peasant woman Bitola
  3. Bulgarian woman from Shkodër

• 1. Muslim horseman from Plovdiv
  2. Bulgarian woman from Koyountepe
  3. Bulgarian woman from Ah'i Tchelebi

• 1. Bulgarian woman from Ahi Tchelebi
  2. Greek woman from Haskovo
  3. Peasant woman from Baidjas

• Vilayet of the Danube

• 1: Bulgarian from Sofia
  2. Bulgarian woman from Sofia

• 1: Bulgarian woman from Ruse
  2. Christian Bulgarian from Vidin
  3. Muslim Bulgarian from Vidin

• Vilayet of Prizren; Vilayet of Scutari

• 1: Muslim woman from Prizren
  2. Farmers from around Prizren
  3. Christian peasant woman from Matefse

• 1: Hodja from Shkodër
  2. Christian priest from Shkodër

• 1: Muslim lady from Shkodër
  2. Christian lady from Shkodër
  3. Peasant woman from Malissor

• 1: Muslim from Shkodër
  2. Muslim lady from Shkodër

• 1: Christian from Shkodër
  2. Christian lady from Shkodër

• 1: Shepherd and peasant woman from Malissor

• Vilayet of Janina; Vilayet of Salonica; Vilayet of Bosnia

• 1: Wealthy Arnaut from Ioannina
  2. Wealthy Arnaut lady from Ioannina
  3. Arnaut child of a wealthy family.

• 1: Arnaut from Ioannina (middle class)
  2. Arnaut from Ioannina (lower class)

• 1: Wallachian (Aromanian) Woman from Ioannina
  2. Christian woman from Preveza
  3. Peasant woman from around Trikala

• 1: Hodja from Thessaloniki
  2. Hakham Bashi of Thessaloniki
  3. Burgher from Bitola

• 1: Muslim lady from Thessaloniki
  2. Jewish lady from Thessaloniki
  3. Bulgarian woman from Prilep

• 1: Inhabitant of Mostar
  2. Burgher from Sarajevo
  3. Lady from Sarajevo

• Vilayet of Crete

• 1. Christian burgher from Chania
  2. Christian horseman from Chania
  3. Muslim lady from Chania

• 1. Female Christian villager from Chania
  2. Christian villager from Chania
  3. Inhabitant of Sfakia

• Vilayet of the Archipelago

• 1. Muslim Artisan man and woman from Çanakkale

• 1. Yorouk (nomad) from Biga
  2. Christian inhabitant of Chios
  3. Christian from Lemnos

• 1. Yorouk woman from Biga
  2. Christian woman from Chios
  3. Christian woman from Lemnos

• • Vilayet of Hudavendigar
  • 1. Turkmen from around Bursa

  • 1. Peasant man and woman from around Bursa (wearing wedding clothing)
    2. Seis (horse groom)

  • 1. Jew and Jewish woman from Bursa

  • Vilayet of Aydın
  • 1. Zeibek
    2. Artisan from Aydın

  • 1. Christian merchant from Aydın
    2. Haham from Izmir
    3. Burgher from Manisa

  • 1. Muslim lady from Manisa
    2. Muslim lady from Izmir

  • Vilayet of Konia
  • 1. Christian from Konya
    2. Muslim horseman from Konya
    3. Inhabitant of Elmalı

  • 1. Armenian Priest from Konya
    2. Mullah from Konya
    3. Greek Priest from Konya

  • 1. Burgher from Konya
    2. Greek woman from Burdur
    3. Muslim woman from Burdur

  • 1. Armenian woman from Burdur
    2. Turkmen woman from Karie de Outmouk
    3. Kurdish woman from Sarıkaya

  • Vilayet of Ankara
  • 1. Muslim Artisan from Ankara
    2. Christian Artisan from Ankara
    3. Kurd from around Yuzgat

  • 1. Bashi-bazouk from Ankara
    2. Muslim peasant from around Ankara
    3. Muslim peasant woman from around Ankara

  • 1. Kurdish woman from around Yuzgat
    2. Female Christian artisan from Ankara
    3. Muslim female artisan from Ankara

  • Vilayet of Kastamonu
  • 1. Turkish worker from Kastamonu
    2. Peasant from Safranbolu
    3. Kurd from Viranşehir

  • Vilayet of Sivas
  • 1. Turkish woman from Osmancık
    2. Muslim artisan from Amasya
    3. Christian lady from Tokat

  • 1. Muslim woman from Sivas
    2. Armenian woman from Sivas
    3. Kurdish woman from around Sivas

  • Vilayet of Trebizond
  • 1. Muslim from Trabzon
    2. Muslim peasant woman from around Trabzon
    3. Laz man

  • 1. Muslim lady from Trabzon (indoor dress)
    2. The same (outdoor dress)

  • Vilayet of Erzerum
  • 1. Worker from around Erzurum
    2. Muslim woman from Van
    3. Armenian woman from Van

  • 1. Armenian priest from Akhtamar
    2. Kurdish horseman from Hakkâri
    3. Kurdish piade (foot soldier) from Hakkâri

  • Vilayet of Diyarbekir
  • 1. Muslim from Diyarbakır
    2. Christian from Diyarbakır
    3. from Palu

  • 1. Muslim lady from Diyarbakır.
    2. Christian lady from Diyarbakır
    3. A woman from Palu

  • 1. Shepherd from around Diyarbakır
    2. A Turk from Cizre
    3. Turk from around Mardin

  • 1. Muslim lady from Sa'nt (indoor clothing)
    2. The same (outdoor clothing)
    3. Turkizh woman from Elâzığ

  • Vilayet of Adana; Vilayet of Aleppo
  • 1. Bedouin from the vilayet of Aleppo
    2. Bedouin woman from the vilayet of Aleppo
    3. Jewish lady from Aleppo

  • 1. Muslim from around Adana
    2. Muslim woman from around Tarsus
    3. Inhabitant of Hadjin

  • Vilayet of Syria
  • 1. Christian inhabitant of Beirut (summer dress)
    2. Muslim lady from Beirut
    3. Christian lady from Beirut (winter dress)

  • 1. Muslim from Lebanon
    2. Muslim woman from Lebanon

  • 1. Christian mountain dweller, from Zahlé (Lebanon)
    2. Christian mountain dweller, from Zgharta (Lebanon)
    3. Druze from Lebanon

  • 1. Christian woman from Zahlé (Lebanon)
    2. Christian woman from Zgharta (Lebanon)
    3. Druze woman from Lebanon

  • 1. Bedouin from Mount Lebanon.
    2. Bedouin woman from Lebanon

  • 1. Fellah from around Damascus
    2. Druze from around Damascus
    3. Arab nomad woman from the Ourban tribe

  • 1. Fellah woman from around Damascus
    2. Druze woman from around Damascus
    3. Lady from Damascus

  • 1. Christian artisan from Belka
    2. Artisan woman from Belka
    3. Peasant Muslim woman from around Belka

  • 1. Shopkeeper from Belka
    2. Fellah from around Belka
    3. Muslim artisan from Belka

  • 1. Jew from Jerusalem
    2. Jewish woman from Jerusalem

  • 1. Arab lady from Jerusalem
    2. Fellah from around Jerusalem
    3. Fellah woman from around Jerusalem

  • Vilayets of Baghdad; Hejaz; Yemen; Tripolitania
  • 1. Arab woman of the Shammar tribe
    2. Arab Zobeid woman
    3. Muslim lady from Baghdad

  • 1. A'alim from Mecca
    2. Inhabitant from Djeaddele (environs of Mecca)
    3. Baveri of the guard of the Sharif of Mecca

  • 1. Kabyle of the Harb tribe (environs of Medina)
    2. Kabyle woman of the Harb tribe (environs of Medina)
    3. Muslim woman from Djeaddele (environs of Mecca)

  • 1. A'alim from Al Hudaydah
    2. Burgher from Al Hudaydah
    3. Muslim lady from Sana'a

  • 1. Shopkeeper from Mocha
    2. Muslim lady from Mecca
    3. Moorish girl from Tripoli

  See also

  • Kaftan
  • Calpack
  • Jelick
  • Turban
  • Yashmak
  • Dolman
  • Timeline of the Turks (500–1300)

  References

  • Feyzi, Muharrem. Eski Türk Kıyafetleri ve Güzel Giyim Tarzları.
  • Koçu, Reşat Ekrem. Türk Giyim Kuşam ve Süslenme Sözlüğü. Ankara: Sümerbank, 1967.
  • Küçükerman, Önder. Türk Giyim Sanayinin Tarihi Kaynakları. İstanbul: GSD Dış Ticaret AŞ, 1966.
  • Sevin, Nurettin. Onüç Asırlık Türk Kıyafet Tarihine Bir Bakış. Ankara: T.C. Kültür Bakanlığı, 1990.
  • Tuğlacı, Pars. Osmanlı Saray Kadınları / The Ottoman Palace Women. Istanbul: Cem Yayınevi,1985.

  External links

  • NYPL Digital Gallery — Album of Turkish Costume Paintings

  Historical clothing Periods Ancient Egyptian Biblical Greek Roman Han Chinese Indian Middle Ages Anglo-Saxon Byzantine English Europe 400s–1000s 1100s 1200s 1300s 1400s Ottoman 1500s–1820s 1500–1550 1550–1600 1600–1650 1650–1700 1700–1750 1750–1775 1775–1795 1795–1820 1820s 1830s–1910s Victorian 1830s 1840s 1850s 1860s 1870s 1880s 1890s 1900s 1910s 1920s–present 1920s 1930–1945 1945–1959 1960s 1970s 1980s 1990s 2000s 2010s Body-length Banyan Brunswick Chiton Frock Peplos Stola Toga Tunic Tops Basque Bedgown Bodice Doublet Peascod belly Poet shirt Trousers Braccae Breeches Culottes Harem pants Knickerbockers Pedal pushers Skirts Ballerina skirt Harem skirt Hobble skirt Poodle skirt Train Dresses Ball gown Close-bodied gown Débutante dress Kirtle Polonaise Sack-back gown Sailor dress Tea gown Outerwear Caraco Chlamys Cloak Dolman Doublet Duster Exomis Frock coat Greatcoat Himation Houppelande Inverness cape Jerkin Justacorps Kandys Palla Pelisse Redingote Smock-frock Ulster coat Visite Witzchoura Underwear Basque Bustle Chausses Chemise Codpiece Corselet Corset Waist cincher Dickey Garter Hoop skirt Crinoline Farthingale Pannier Hose Liberty bodice Loincloth Open drawers Pantalettes Peignoir Pettipants Union suit Yếm Headwear Albanian Apex Arakhchin Attifet Aviator Bergère Blessed hat Bonnet Capotain Cavalier Coif Coonskin Cornette Crown Dunce Fillet Fontange Hennin Jeongjagwan Jewish Kausia Kokoshnik Llawt'u Matron's badge Miner's Ming Mob Modius Monmouth Mooskappe Motoring hood Mounteere Nemes Nightcap Nón quai thao Ochipok Pahlavi Petasos Phrygian Pileus Printer's Pudding Qing Snood Tainia Taranga Wimple Footwear Buskins Caligae Chopines Crakow Episcopal sandals Hessians Pampooties Sabatons Accessories Ascot tie Belt hook Cointoise Cravat Hairpin Hatpin Muff Ruff Shoe buckle See also Timeline of clothing Clothing terminology Costume Dress code Fashion Formal wear Sumptuary law

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